8 Cuts of Meat You’ve Never Tried But Should
When shopping for meat, it’s easy to fall in a rut. Naturally, we gravitate toward the cuts we know and dearly love: chicken breasts, filet mignon and perhaps leg of lamb, to name a few. But if you’ve never pushed your carnivorous horizons beyond traditional favorites, you’re sorely missing out.
Of course, exploring new cuts of meat (or any new cuisine, for that matter) can be daunting, particularly if you’re the cook. So for professional guidance, we sought out master butcher Kari Underly. Her credentials include principal of Chicago-based Range and author of the James Beard-nominated book “Art of Beef Cutting.” If anyone knows the nuances of meat, it’s Underly.
Here, Underly graciously divulges her most beloved yet lesser-known cuts of meat, along with preparation and cooking tips for each. Grab a napkin, fellow meat lovers. You’re going to need something to catch that drool.
Beef: Bone-in short rib
Let me guess: You’re thinking the bone-in short rib doesn’t qualify as an obscure cut of meat. True, this cut is quite common, but it has a few surprises up its sleeve. “It’s usually served braised, so most people don’t think of it as something for the grill,” Underly says, noting that you can also get a boneless version of this cut. “But if you ask your butcher to cut it thin across the ribs, it makes for amazing quick-fry steaks that are great for getting a quick four ounces of protein down the chute.”
Beef: Bottom sirloin flap or bavette
Underly’s second-favorite cut of meat is one at which, years ago, consumers turned up their noses. “The bottom sirloin flap is essentially the old tail on a t-bone,” she explains. Underly describes this cut, which is also called “bavette” (French for bib or flap), as a thick skirt steak with nice muscle fibers, making it ideal for a flavor marinade. “This cut is delicious grilled and sliced across the grain for fajitas and stir-fry, or for making sirloin tips—it’s loaded with flavor,” she adds.
Beef: Ribeye filet
If you close your eyes and imagine a steak sizzling madly on the grill, it’s likely you’ll picture a ribeye—the classic cut of beef. Underly jokes that most people have a love-hate relationship with the ribeye: they love its flavor and fat, but at the same time, they don’t like all of its fat. “When you think about a ribeye, you might think about the big piece of fat right in the middle of the steak,” she says. “But if you ask your butcher to take the section between the sixth and eighth rib, cut it off, and take the fat away, you’ll be left with a ribeye filet. This cut gives you internal marbling, which is the fat inside of the muscle, but you won’t have fat all around it.”
Beef: Ribeye Cap
Cutting the ribeye filet also produces Underly’s all-time favorite cut: the ribeye cap. The analogy she uses to describe it will make you want to make a beeline for your local butcher. “It’s like beef butter,” she says, carefully articulating the word “butter” so that its two syllables drop heavily—perhaps in the same way a succulent ribeye cap might land on your plate. “If you’ve ever picked the top crunchy ‘yum-yums’ off of a standing rib roast—that’s the ribeye cap.”
Underly recommends asking your butcher for the whole piece—it’s about two pounds—and butterflying it or grilling it whole. “Or, you could slice it for quick steaks, which are to die for,” she adds.
Pork: Tomahawk chop
Photography – Kari Underly
Underly has a soft spot in her heart for heritage breed pigs, which are known for their sumptuous, high-quality fat. When it comes to a particular cut of their meat, Underly doesn’t hesitate to name the tomahawk pork chop, which she brands as a “pork chop and spare rib, all in one slice.” This cut, however, is not for the dainty eater. “If you’re looking to load up on protein, it’s a good choice,” she says. “Plus, it gives you plenty of nice fat, and exceptional flavor.”
Pork: Brisket
The pork brisket usually ends up going into sausage, which is why Underly calls it a “hidden gem.” This very lean cut, she says, is superb when marinated or grilled, lightly smoked, or made into pork jerky.
Pork: Coppa
Coppa is a section in the pork Boston butt that is typically cured and dried for salumi. Underly, however, instructs it should not be overlooked when you’re in the mood to grill. “It’s a fatty piece of meat, but it’s really yummy, especially when it’s sliced and grilled,” she says.
Goat and Lamb Various cuts
Lamb Leg Chop
These two animals, Underly notes, make for great alternatives to traditional protein. “They’re smaller and they graze on smaller farms, which positively impacts the environment,” she says, noting that both goat and lamb have experienced recent gains in popularity. As for cuts of their meat, Underly lists blade chops from the arm and anything from the chuck—which she says will have a lot of flavor—as well as legs, for roasting. “The legs of a lamb or goat aren’t as tough as beef, so they’re really tender,” she says. “Butterflying or stuffing a lamb or goat leg makes for a wonderful dish.”
So, now that you know what’s out there, go forth into your newly expanded world of meat. Visit your local grocer or butcher and give Underly’s recommendations a try. You won’t be disappointed.
Photography Credits– Jennifer Marx Photography
Styling – Kari Underly
Leigh Kramarczuk is a Minneapolis-based freelance writer and the owner of Red Dog Communications. She gets her carnivorous fix by visiting husband’s family’s meat emporium, Kramarczuk Sausage Company |
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